Not only UVA and UVB: how cosmetics protect from blue and infrared light

The wide use of screens, smartphones and tablets expose the skin to the impact of blue light, which can lead to erythema, free radical production and long-lasting hyperpigmentation. Since current chemical filters cannot protect from blue light, cosmeticians can implement the protective function of cosmetics’ formulas by adding mineral filters, or anti-oxidants to limit accelerated skin ageing.

Infrared light is mainly responsible for the increase of skin temperature and leads to the production of free radicals and metalloproteinases-1 in the dermis, which can cause skin aging and probably carcinogenesis. Effective protection against infrared can be achieved by adding absorbing optical filters in the IR range, free radical scavengers and/or photon reflection to cosmetics’ formulas.

Dermscan[1] offers different approaches to assess the anti-blue light and anti-infrared protective effect at the level of the skin:

  • Anti-blue light: Irradiation (single or repeated) in blue light (followed by evaluation of β-carotene oxidation, protein carbonylation, lipid oxidation or pigmentation); and test in real conditions to evaluate the effect on cutaneous fatigue and complexion, on subjects regularly exposed to the screens of electronic devices.
  • Anti-infrared: cutaneous measures of colour and/or temperature and/or microcirculation (biometric approach); lipid and/or enzymes oxidation assays (MDA, CAT, SOD[2]), which is the biochemical approach.

 

If you wish to implement the protective effect of your cosmetics in full compliance with the European Regulation, please contact us. With 30 years of regulatory experience, Obelis experts will be happy to help you ensure that your products are ready to access the EU market.

 

 

Silvia Ziliotti

[1] Dermscan: Center of in vivo and in vitro studies

[2] MDA= Malondialdehyde; CAT=Chloramphenicol acetyltransferase; SOD=superoxide dismutase

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